What’s the difference between hot springs and hot springs?
We spent the couple months leading up to our trip to Yellowstone National Park watching videos and reading books about the park. We stressed (over and over again) they could not go near or in the hot springs. Then, we took the kids to Norris Hot Springs to swim. Cause how could that possibly be confusing for a toddler?
Buddy The Bison
National Geographic Kids Buddy Bison’s Yellowstone Adventure really helped the boys wrap their heads around what the park would be like (and got them obsessed with bison, but more on that later).
Another thing we talked about was safety. How the thermal features around the park are so delicate, takes years and years to form and can be destroyed by one careless step. And how some of them are so hot they can really hurt you; so, holding Momma and Dad’s hands, staying on the trail, and staying alert were essential.
Bottom line, if you asked my twins, was that you have to stay away from the wild animals and stay out of the hot springs. Simple, right?
More than 20 people (including 7 children) have died in thermal features in the park.
First stop in the Park – Beryl Spring – Hello Sulfur
The first day we went into the park (all 11 of us!) we stopped at our very first Thermal feature in the middle west of the park, Beryl Spring. There wasn’t much crowd at 3pm with overcast skies. The spring is immediately next to the road with a short (under 75 foot) boardwalk around it so it was an easy walk for the older folks.
It seemed like a win-win.
Then the wind shifted. And my gaggy, prone to vomiting, toddler got a cloud of sulfury steam right in the face. Immediate vomit. And immediate decision, on his part, that he hated Hot Springs, hated geysers, and hated Yellowstone.
BUT IT WILL BURN US – a Hot Spring dilemma
After the first week of our trip we ventured to Norris, Montana to go for a soak in the Water of the Gods at Norris Hot Springs. Halfway through the 45 min drive my toddlers started sobbing. “But we CAN’T swim in the hot springs. It will BURN us.” My niece added, “Yeah, it can kill you.” (I’d have put my face in my palm, but I was driving).
Then J remembered about the sulfur and cried, “But I will THROW UP.”
It took a solid 10 minutes to explain to the 3 year olds that there was a difference between a hot spring and a hot spring. My nephew helped us settle on the term “Hot Tub”. Also, my sister (who went to Water of the Gods once before) assured me it was not a sulfury spring.
Norris Hot Springs – Water of the Gods
You find the hot springs immediately outside of the crossroads in Norris, Montana. A large graveled parking lot splits in two directions, toward the campground or to the Hot Springs. Some parking spaces were shaded. At 11am on a Monday, it was not crowded.
The open air entrance threads you through some 1 story buildings housing the changing rooms and kitchen, then opens up to the pool area, the dome, and the yard. Bathrooms are clean portable toilets.
The ‘Hot Tub’, I mean Hot Spring
The pool is 30 feet (10 meters) by 40 feet (12.2 meters) and its wooden plank bottom sits directly over the spring. Wide and shallow steps lead into the pool. Wooden benches line the perimeter of the pool. Turns out they were the perfect height for toddlers to play on. Standing 3.5 foot deep in hot water while being showered with chilly well water was a bracing and refreshing experience.
Sprayers over 1/4 of the pool added cold water to keep the temperature an even 100F (37.7C) in the summer. They drain the pool every night, add no chemicals, and the overflow diverts through wetlands along it’s natural course until it joining up with the Madison River, 5 miles downstream.
A pair of pergolas shade several cafe tables on a cement patio to the right of the pool. Beyond that you find a shaded lawn dotted with tables and lounge chairs. Beyond the fence wildflowers were blooming in profusion. We set up at a table in the grassy corner and a perfect spot for keeping our little ones out from under foot of the other guests.
Swimming in the Hot Spring
It took a while for my toddlers to ‘warm up’ to the idea of getting in the Hot Tub (not my 7 and 10 year old niece and nephew, though. They jumped right in). We brought a bag of small plastic toys and the boys enjoyed lingering along the edge of the pool and letting their animals take baths. The kids loved filling up the Water of the Gods cups with the icy well water and dumping it on each other (and on us too).
A variety of life preservers and swim aids were available for non-swimmers, as well as bathing suits and towels to rent for a trivial amount of money. And, btw, it was $8 for adults and $3 for under 12. There is a $2 for the music cover when they have live bands in the dome (which happens Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings all year round).
Food and Drink at Norris Hot Springs
The 50 Mile Snack Bar (open during the day) and The 50 Mile Grill (open after 4pm – so we didn’t try it – but the menu looks amazing) provides locally grown, organic, and gluten free choices. Much of it grown ON SITE! They use the geothermal heat from the spring to heat greenhouse, kitchen, dome, and saloon.
The choices off the Snack Bar menu were mex inspired, well presented, and delicious. We sampled the quesadillas, pizza, and house made hummus. Prices were consistent with high quality locally sourced food (ie, $7 – $17).
The Saloon serves wine, hard cider, and craft beers (prices ranging from $5-10 per serving), as well as non-alcoholic options. Also, My toddler found out that they have single-serving Haggen-Das ice cream when he pooped in the potty there! So, Mama got to have a Hard Cider to celebrate.
THEY ARE CLOSED TUESDAYS
We learned the hard way that they are closed on Tuesdays when my sister and I tried to go back on our Mommy Day Off.
Hot Springs vs. Hot Springs
Words that sound the same but mean different things are hard for toddlers (and everyone learning english) to wrap their heads around. One of my guys is convinced that “too many” is actually “two manys” so a ‘Many’ has become a unit of things in our house. As in, “I want two manys of ice cream”.
In the end, the Hot Springs was a little much for my 3 year olds. As was noted often in the signage around the facility, young children should be carefully monitored while bathing in Hot Springs or Hot Tubs or whatever. They have a harder time maintaining their body temperature, and can overheat easily. I was glad I brought some activities for them to engage with outside the pool, so we could enjoy floating as long as the grownups liked.
I’ve been to highly polished, resort hot springs (swoon, my favorite the Greenbrier Resort, White Sulfur Springs, WV) to literal dug out logs down a hiking trail (Bagby Hot Springs, Oregon). Norris Hot Springs was a perfect casual medium, not crowded, nice amenities, great staff.
Have you been to a Hot Springs you loved? We skipped Blue Lagoon in Iceland when I was pregnant, but I hear it’s amazing. Have you been? Where would you go back to?
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